
(一直都很想比較一下這兩台差異,所以花了好些時間餵它們豆子,慢慢勾肩搭背的培養感情)
咖啡手沖的領域一直都很奧妙,不同的沖煮方式對應上不同的器材就能變化出千百種迴異的結果,不過手沖最有趣的大概是要沖出每一杯都不一樣是很簡單的,而要沖出每杯都一樣卻很困難(笑),大概是咖啡跟人生的關聯性很像,隨著水溫、氣溫、濕度、豆性等等每一刻都在變化,你能把握的往往只有當下
會挑這兩台來比較基本上是不太公平,因為價位差了將近一倍,不過世間上不公平的事情反正也已經太多(自暴自棄中),考慮到這兩台已經是日本相對熱門且入手比較簡易的機種,一開始我先買了小富士鬼齒,本以為天下已經太平(捻鬚笑),直到又喝到nice cut的那個瞬間野火再度被燃起,心一橫乾脆兩台一起買來比較喝喝看
有個咖啡同好曾經說過:「喝的出差異不見得是幸福」。
朋友不能亂交,咖啡也不能亂喝。很不幸的是我一次做錯兩件事
在朋友那喝到Nice Cut對應淺焙豆的味道實在讓人有些驚豔,才又趁著日幣走入低潮時,請代購姊姊幫忙閃電空運一台過來,就這樣有點奢侈的雙機留用了好一陣子,這之間也吃飽閒著做了好幾次AB測試,兩者各有擅長之處,實在很難一言以蔽之
這回先把結論寫在前面(獻給比猴子還急的朋友)

↑ 雖然很難一言以蔽之,不過用圖像溝通一向是咱們這種雜學設計師的專長(笑),從上圖應該不難理解,小富士的表現是口感柔和,層次滑順,在口腔的感覺圓潤。Nice cut的表現是口感銳利,層次分明,毫不修飾也不拖泥帶水,對於豆性的表達很明確
要喝舒服的我會挑小富士,要認真喝咖啡品嚐味道我會選nice cut,跟攝影人生有點像,要拍氣氛記錄生活我會選底片機,要工作或認真拍些什麼會選數位相機,沒有什麼絕對,挑選合適的就好
鬼齒小富士有點像是底片相機,氣氛都能靠銀鹽顆粒,把色調修飾的很好,閱讀起來很舒服,寬容度比較高,能夠應付各種類型的豆子。
Nice Cut就像是解析力較高的數位相機,很能清楚的表達每個該表現的細節,但味道的走向全看取材的對象。
【中深焙與淺焙的表現差異】

↑ 我想這大概是對這兩台磨豆機最有興趣的話題,到底哪台適合磨什麼,用烘焙度來區分應該算是還不錯的議題,剛好我家平常都準備兩種豆子,一支淺焙外搭一支中深焙,左邊的是中焙慢特寧,一般我都烘到220度下豆,右邊的是檸檬樹莊園的爪哇豆,只烘到207下豆

↑ 這是磨中深焙的慢特寧結果,Nice Cut的研磨出的咖啡粉比較扁平,小富士鬼齒產出的大多比較有菱有角一點 (小富士總是在研磨的最後奉送一坨細粉),我想它們的刀盤設計幾乎是決定了味道的走向,兩者在這個階段比較,Nice Cut的香氣已經有些奔放,相較之下小富士的乾香像是悶著,沒什麼顯著的氣味飄出

↑ 磨淺焙的結果,按照慣例,有奉送細粉一沱的就是小富士,兩者的研磨度都在刻度4之後,開始有外觀上可辨識的差異

↑ 微距鏡下的nice cut

↑ 微距鏡下的小富士
【沖煮比較】




↑ 其實就是加減反覆測試,什麼煮法都稍微試過藉以對照差異,有kono滴滴法,杯測法,或是用愛樂壓用一模一樣的條件沖煮,雖然沖煮法不盡相同,不過結論通常都差不多
擺一起喝其實有點疲勞轟炸,相對於鬼齒的圓潤表現,nice cut有點太過銳利清晰,容易讓沖煮或豆子的瑕疵一覽無遺(掩面),在nice cut入手之前我都以為養豆其實不見得需要,但有了nice cut之後,喝的到豆子從烘焙完每日每日的顯著變化,從充滿雜感澀味可以逐漸喝到甜美微熟的階段差異真的是相當微妙,難怪有人提過自烘的朋友最好不要用鬼齒小富士,過度修飾豆性很容易阻礙進步(笑),另外是nice cut的香氣真的還蠻突出
另一個是相對於Nice Cut的銳利,鬼齒的口感真的不是開玩笑的滑柔,咖啡液很像絲綢在口中化開綻放,但一比之下,鬼齒真的有點頓,很像隔層薄紗,朦朦朧朧的很美但也很難全盤品嚐到深入的細節
兩台磨豆機對應中深焙豆
憑良心說,沖煮中深焙的豆子,兩杯剛沖完熱騰騰的狀態下,其實我常常喝不出差異(早知道就省下來了),大多要等降溫個10度左右才能略微辨識兩者差別,nice cut依舊把層次拉的很分明,香氣控制的比較外放,結論是它磨中深焙豆也不會比較差,不過中焙深焙的豆子我比較偏愛鬼齒的圓滑感
細粉
細粉的狀況大概是很多人很熱衷探討的問題,因為過量的細粉可能會影響到沖煮的流速,或是產生多餘的雜味,但這兩台產出的咖啡粉基本上的口感都算乾淨,所以本回就很乾脆的不探討這個問題。
降壓器
很多購買日本電器的朋友會問的問題,磨豆機該不該使用降壓器,好吧,老實說我真的測試了,接上變壓器之後,轉速很明顯的有降低
小富士有降跟沒降,比較沒有顯著差異,但nice cut是喝的出來的,透明度跟香氣都比較有到達理想中的水準,總而言之降壓器也不是太貴,有降壓有保佑柳
【清潔與保養】這大概屬於身為居家長工的會計較的貓毛問題

↑ 寫到這邊終於可以比較一下兩者外觀,小富士雖然不算大,但跟nice cut一比就是很不苗條

↑ 正面一覽,有空間限制的可以選nice cut就好

↑ 背面加減看,平光黑其實有打到我的要害(歪腰)

↑ 兩者都將近快一個月沒清潔了,直接開肚子給大家賞析一下,兩邊都不需要任何工具,徒手就能轉下

↑ 平刀與鬼齒,每次我拆下刀盤,平刀上總是會卡個一兩顆命很硬的咖啡豆來著 (我都在想它們到底是用什麼樣的決心讓自己成為釘子戶死巴著不走(轉頭看往總統府的方向發楞))

↑ nice cut的內部樣貌,殘粉殘塊很多哀哀

↑ 鬼齒有好上一些些,就是粉而已

↑ 順手清理乾淨後的樣子


↑ 把粉清乾淨的樣貌

↑ 邊刷邊蒐集的殘粉們,左邊有顆豆子的就是nice cut,右邊少少的是鬼齒小富士,從這邊應該不難理解它們的價位跟精密度的差異(掩面),nice cut就是每兩天要拆下清潔一次,不然很快就能煮出外加中藥味的走味咖啡(笑),小富士我好像都一兩個月才心血來潮開來觀摩一下而已,很懶的清潔保養的朋友應該知道要多選哪台了

結論外的結論,沒事不要像我拿石頭砸腳,好用的機器一台就夠,兩者都能磨出品質優良的咖啡粉,個人建議除了味道的表現之外,也可以從使用的便利性或能負擔的價位來考慮該挑選哪台機器
基本上台灣製的小飛鷹表現已經還算不錯,但想升級日本這兩台的………
熱於品嚐咖啡豆每段環節又不怕清理麻煩的可以選nice cut,預算夠的話,懶得動腦袋只想有台穩定好用的磨豆機的可以選小富士
好自在磨豆機蒐集協會關心您荷包的健康
這回購買Kalita Nice Cut Mill 的日本亞馬遜網址 http://ppt.cc/aGrP
按照慣例還是找了上迴那位素不相識也無利益輸送的代購姊姊幫忙,磨豆機換算匯率後後連同代購費台幣4260,用ems寄到台灣1260(日本到台北不到24hr),提供給有興趣的朋友參考,代購姐姐的回信速度算快信件往來口吻風趣,算是長期配合讓人安心的對象來著(有邪念的朋友們可以打住腳步惹,從fb的種種跡象看來,人家已經是兩個孩子的人妻來著)(雙手合十)
代購姊姊joyce 的blog,facebook,要麻煩人家幫忙的話建議可以看一下代購須知,比較可以知道整個流程跟狀況,
134 comments
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